Hoi An was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, and a visit to this old-world gem is a sure cultural highlight of any tour in Vietnam. From the 16th to the 18th century, the city was Vietnam's most important port and trading post, particularly of ceramics with nearby China. Today it is a quaint old town of some 844 structures protected as historical landmarks, and the unique influence of Chinese and Japanese traders who passed through (or settled) can still be felt. It's a picturesque town, small enough to cover easily on foot, with lots of good nooks and crannies, shops, and gastronomic delights to discover.
Wander among historic homes and temples, perhaps stop to lounge in an open-air cafe, gaze at the oddities and exotic foods in the market, or take a sampan ride down the lazy river. In the afternoons when school is out, the streets are thronged with skipping children in spotless white shirts and girls in their ao dai uniforms, and you can still see local craftsmen at work in some parts of the city.
During the full moon of every month, local shop owners turn off the electricity and hang lanterns bearing their shops' names, and a candlelight lantern procession, complete with a few small floats, makes its way through the Old Town and along the riverfront. It's well worth timing a visit to enjoy the spectacle and the post-processional festivities.
Hoi An Riverside Resort
Location Cua Dai Rd. 3km (1 3/4 miles) from Hoi An Phone 0510/864-800
Frommer's Review
For upscale, tranquil, and intimate surroundings, you'll find no better than this lush little resort between road and river outside of Hoi An (just 3km/1 3/4 miles). The place has a cozy feel, as if guest rooms kind of grew around the winding path of the garden and tranquil courtyard pool. Rooms are neat and clean and not especially big, but with nice views of the meandering bend in the river here or the quiet garden. Vietnamese- or Japanese-theme rooms offer a similar standard of amenities and comfort, with smallish but immaculate bathrooms and nice wood appointments throughout. The staff is invisible, meaning that this place carries on like an immaculately trimmed golf course that gets a once-over each night. The Song Do restaurant serves fine Vietnamese and Continental fare, and a visit to their Faifo bar harkens back to another era. The central pool is a relaxing spot -- great after wandering the town labyrinths. The staff is very professional and informative. They offer Vietnamese cooking lessons or lazy canoe trips on the picturesque river.
Life Resort Hoi An
Address 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An Town Phone 510/914-555
Frommer's Review
New in 2004, the Life Resort is the only resort within walking distance of Hoi An -- a good start. Chic, minimalist rooms are quite comfortable, with a two-tier open set-up facing the central courtyard and small pool. Each room has good indirect lighting, with wall sconces and free-standing cloth-wrapped tubes that provide a warm glow. For contrast, each room has a stalwart black desk, which pops out from the white tile floors and plaster wall. The raised sleeping areas are done in black tile and give way to wide doors and the bathrooms that are slick still-lifes of modernity, with large sink stands and large central shower (no tub). Rooms are compact and very comfortable, with sitting areas out front and two couches. Come with friends and you can party on your own porch or wake up and sit outside for quiet meditation in the morning, the sound of riverboats chugging by on the river in the distance. The central pool is square and not very large, but it's great for kids because it's shallow at one end; it's also a great backdrop for moonlight strolling. The best rooms face the river or spill out to the central pool area. Managed by a friendly Australian, this city resort is really the best in-town address and my top choice for a stay in Hoi An. The resort's dining outlets, housed in a large faux-colonial block at riverside, are atmospheric. I like the quiet air-conditioned cafe, which offers good coffee and desserts.
Victoria Hoi An Resort
Location Cua Dai Beach, 5km (3 miles) from Hoi An Phone 0510/927-041
Frommer's Review
Come here for peace and palm trees, just a short ride (4.8km/3 miles) from ancient Hoi An. The comfortable Victoria has all the amenities, lots of activities, and begs for at least a few days' stay. Guest rooms have it right in every detail, from fine rustic decor to in-room sandals and beach robes. Rooms are either the bungalow variety in low-slung buildings at beachside or set in parallel two-story rows to mimic Hoi An's ancient streets -- not displeasing, but a bit like a theme park. Prices reflect beachside proximity, but even the least expensive rooms are laid-back and classy. Some bungalows are decorated in French country style, with canopy beds and wicker furniture; others are unique Japanese rooms, with open-timber construction, bamboo floors, and large bathtubs. All rooms are finished in dark wood, many with high, exposed tile ceilings and colorful, nonslip tile leading into large bathrooms. There's a certain flow to this property -- from beach to garden and from rooms to common spaces (including a small billiards room with gaming tables and reading nooks) -- that invites guests to wander; it's all connected by catwalk. Amenities like the large ocean-side pool, indoor gym, Jacuzzi, aesthetic salon, and massage are top-notch. The hotel's resident elephant, Darling, offers rides to kids and adults of all ages (priced per hour) and gives demonstrations on elephant hygiene early each morning (he takes his bath). Darling can usually carry three adults plus the mahout, or driver. Convenient shuttles, one an old Renault bus, connect to town frequently; or you can rent a motorcycle with sidecar. They have a private boat for transfers to town, and you can rent kayaks and kite-surfing equipment. Plus, the resort offers cooking courses and is the only hotel in the area with full body massage.
Facilities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; outdoor pool (beachside); 2 tennis courts; nice health club; spa; Jacuzzi; kayak/windsurfer/Hobie Cat rental; children's play area; snooker/billiards room; tour desk; car rental; shopping; extensive salon; 24-hr. room service; foot massage; babysitting; laundry; dry cleaning; elephant rides; Internet; small library.
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